Microencapsulation technology

Guest Post

Written By Lisa Fryer, Sales Manager, Quadra and Margarita Sidorova, Canadian Cosmetic Cluster

CocoBerry Embraces Microencapsulation Technology

At CocoBerry, we value science and technology. There have been many advancements in cosmetic ingredients. We work with suppliers to showcase the best of this innovation in our formulations. Quadra Chemicals has been a great supporter of our start up success. Quadra is proudly Canadian and works only with ingredients of the highest quality from the best suppliers.  Their sustainability program includes offering Green or Better Choice products which include Ecocert and Cosmos certifications.  Quadra’s product line is rich in natural, organic and Biobased ingredients that exceed all of the standards of the Personal Care Industry.

Let’s take a look at the Microencapsulation technology that has been widely explored by many industries including Cosmetics and Pharmaceutical. Cosmetics and Personal Care products often contain biologically active substances that are unstable and sensitive to temperature, pH, light and oxidation.  These substances may undergo undesired reactions that lead to the reduction or loss of their effectiveness or even lead to the degradation of the cosmetic product.  [1]  Microencapsulation of efficacious cosmetics can overcome these undesirable results.

ACTIVE PROTECTION

Essential Oils, Vitamins, Acids and Natural Extracts are highly oxidative substances that quickly degrade and constantly react with the medium and other cosmetic compounds (light, oxygen, packaging, preservatives, fragrances, surfactants, etc.). By encapsulating it, we grant the stability of the active ingredients and protect them from possible reactions with the formulation or the environment.

Using a production process that is based on Green-Chemistry allows some encapsulated ingredients to be water-based, free of organic solvents and totally sustainable, reducing waste that may otherwise be harmful to the users and/or the environment.

Increased Permeation

The encapsulation grants a better permeation of the actives in the skin. Unlike the actives in their free form, the encapsulated actives can overcome the stratum corneum layer, reaching the epidermis and delivering the maximum benefits.

• Safe Particles -We work with labile particles, biocompatible and biodegradable, bigger than 200nm (nanometer), which does not generate risks to users or the environment.

• Multifunctional Particles - The main function of the capsules is to protect the active ingredients and increase its permeation. But Nanovetores’ capsules are multifunctional, they work synergistically with the encapsulated ingredients to enhance the benefits of its usage. There are two kinds of capsules:
• Lipid particle, Multifunctionality: Moisturizing and Enhanced Permeation
• Biopolymer particle, Multifunctionality: Cutaneous Firmness and Hair Adhesion

Surface Charge Control - The control over the capsule’s surface charge promotes a better fixation of the capsules when in contact with the surface. Example: In active ingredients for hair products, the capsules have a positive surface charge, that will be attracted by the hair’s natural negative charge.

• Monodispersity - We perform the control over the size of the particles, granting the uniformity of the active ingredients’capsule size and ensuring that all of them have the proper permeation for each specific benefit.

• Morphological Control - We develop different types of particles for different applications.

​Our technology allows a prolonged release of the active ingredients through 5 innovative and specific triggers.

• Water - The addition of water sets-off the release of the actives from the capsules. Example: Our Instant Base has a self-emulsifying action. When water is added, it forms a bright and smooth homogeneous cream.

• Temperature - A heat source promotes the variation of the capsule’s temperature, releasing the active ingredient. Example: Hair dryers or Straightening Irons.

• Enzymatic - The Enzymes promote the breakage of the capsules, releasing the active in the deeper layers of the skin through time, this trigger enables controlled and sustained release of the active ingredients, granting superior benefits and no irritability.

• pH Variation - The pH variation leads to the disruption of the capsules, releasing the active ingredients. For example, sweating promotes a skin pH variation, this change will release the actives.

• Friction - The friction on the capsules promotes their breakage and the active’s release. We have developed encapsulated fragrances that after friction, releases a stronger scent. The biocompatible composition of these capsules makes them safe for application in personal care.

Let’s take a look at one of our favorite cosmetic active – NV Retinol and the benefits of encapsulation.

 NV Re densifier is a blend of bio functional active ingredients encapsulated in biopolymeric particles with a diameter greater than 200 nm. With particles high in amino acids of high hair and skin affinity, NV Redensifier consists of a protein capsule - Hydrolyzed Pea-, which contains the blend of Hyaluronic Acid, Comfrey and Onion Extract. The bio actives association from the NV Redensifier blend enhances skin and hair benefits delivery, while Redensifier, repairs and nourishes from the inside out. When applied on the hair, the NV Resensifier permeates the surface of the strand, restoring it and increasing its strength and elasticity, due to the great affinity with the hair fiber. The sustained release of the biofunctional actives on the hair stand improves its strength and resistance, increasing hair volume and combating dryness. These active ingredients act synergistically increasing the diameter and resistance of the strands, leaving them with more volume, and shiny, in addition to restructuring the porous strand, filling in the lost capillary mass and eliminating frizz. When thermoactivated, NV Redensifier is broken up and forms a protective barrier on the strands.

The pea protein is derived from the plant Pisum sativum, a high-fiber, low-fat legume with an extraordinary amino acid profile, especially high in lysine, a key amino acid in the collagen and carnitine synthesis. Recently, several peptides and proteins have been developed to accelerate and facilitate the delivery of bioactive molecules in the skin, hydrolyzed proteins rich in arginine, have remarkable effects on permeation. Natural bioactive peptides when applied topically can contribute to reverse the signs of aging and photodamage of the skin and hair. They play a significant role in anti-aging cosmetics, with remarkable dermal redensification, increased synthesis of collagen and elastin, glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycan and fibronectin, with apparent improvement in healing processes.

Considered the new source of beauty, proteins, thanks to their natural affinity with keratin present in the skin and hair, represent the perfect building block in the formulation of soft and biodegradable multifunctional cosmetic products. The pea hydrolyzed protein binds to the surfaces forming a highly hydrated layer, which hinders the diffusion and evaporation of water, maintaining hydration. Hydrolyzed pea protein is an excellent source of planet derived amino acids. It is not derived from genetically modified organisms (GMOs), gluten-free, generating a "safer perception" for end consumers.

Hyaluronic acid is a high molecular weight polymer (1200 kDa), soluble in water, considered unable to penetrate the skin by passive diffusion. This characteristic of the active can be improved with its encapsulation in particles, which act as a facilitator of transcellular penetration into the skin as a result of a stronger interaction with biological membranes. When applied topically, hyaluronic acid nanoparticles form an intense bond with water, thus promoting skin hydration, and contributing to the restoration of the facial volume. These results can be perceived with the decrease of expression lines and wrinkles, making the skin smoother, firmer and rejuvenated. In capillary applications, it penetrates the fiber filling and intensely moisturizes the strands, making them brighter and healthier, also being effective for frizz reduction, color maintenance and decreasing scalp irritation.

Onion bulbs contain fructose, water soluble carbohydrates, glucose, sucrose, fructooligosaccharides (FOS) and fructans constituting 60-80% of dry weight. FOS are not only energy reserves, but also act as osmorregulators capable of retaining large amounts of water, maintaining hydration and balance of the skin barrier and hair. The great affinity of onion extract for hair and skin can be explained by the presence of the groups -S- (O) -S- of the Thiosulphines, which interact with the HS groups present in cysteine, a component of beta-keratin found abundantly in these tissues. he Tiosulfinates and ceapanes represent the active constituents with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity present in onion extracts. Studies have shown that onion extract has a therapeutic effect on alopecia areata, this activity can be attributed to stimulating hair growth through antigenic competition, reducing inflammatory cytokines in the hair follicle. The extract has also been shown to be effective in improving the appearance of hypertrophic scars, known as keloids, characterized by excessive proliferation of dermal tissue after long periods and persistent inflammation and fibrosis. The anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of onion extract makes it an excellent ally in protecting skin and hair against UV rays and pollution, promoting tissue regeneration.

Nanovetores Group is an innovative company established in Brazil known for the development of microencapsulated active ingredients. Encapsulation maximizes the performance of active ingredients granting protection, deeper permeation and control over the release of the active compound. Nanovetores company is committed to sustainability, where all products are designed and produced in clean and green processes. The products are manufactured using only water as solvent, the process is totally free of organic solvents, which grants safety for the environment and final users. Nanovetores’ Research, Development and Innovation team comprises renowned professionals with more than 15 years of international experience and expertise in active ingredient encapsulation systems. In addition, all sectors within Nanovetores work synergistically to provide the most appropriate solutions for each need in a fast and proactive way.

[1]https://www.researchgate.net/publication/284754922_Encapsulation_of_cosmetic_active_ingredients_for_topical_application_-_a_review

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